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John'sDecoyDoing
John
Bourbon Jr.

Well folks, it finally
happened, I got so busy hunting and doing
work related things that I screwed up and never got to November's Decoy
Doings page until the end of December.
So what have
I been up to? Well for starters trying to kill some
ducks. Let me tell you, I did not set the kill records aflame
this year. Between warm weather, and hard south winds, I probably only
avg'ed 1 duck per hunt. However I did kill 3 different ducks using
my new
little boat PIGWITCH in its lay out mode. I am going to fine tune my
approach a litle for next year and that boat ought to be a true killing
machine.
About the
second week in Nov, I had the oppurtunity to take a
business trip to Japan. It lasted a week, all expenses paid in Nagano,
where the last winter Olympics were held. Then when I got back, I had
just
a few hundred things that needed catching up on.
So what
have I done decoy wise? NOTHING except pick through my
hunting rig to find dekes that need fixing. One of my very early dekes,
drake greenwing teal needs to have the neck re-faired. You see when
I
started, I was using plastic wood around the necks to fair in the
neck-to-chest joint. I have since learned that plastic wood dries and
shrinks and falls out.
Right after
the first of the year, I start repairing dekes. If
you have any questions, please e-mail me.
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Nov/Dec Carving Tip
When you bandsaw out a deke, especially a wood one, saw the side profile
first. If you don't, you run the risk of trying to push a round chunk
of
wood through the blade on a flat table. Trust me, its a recipe for
potential disaster. Before I wised up to this, I had 2 seperate bandsaw
blades break and come flying out at me at high speed. Pisses you off
and
could cost you
Well, I've done it again. I got busy and the time slipped by till I
figured
I'd do another combination Decoy Doings. This time though, I have something
to show for the time I spent not writing this column.
Like what? For starters, I started repairing and repainting a
pair of
large magnum style old LL Bean mallards for Dave D in Manassas Va.
I had to
replace the tailbaord with a piece of 1/4" mahogany, and reshape the
sides
and top. To my eye, the shape now looks more lifelike. After that we're
talking 2 coats of black Rustoleum paint as primer coat and a color
coat on
top of that. I am also doing the same thing to a pair of newer LL Bean
mallards I bought from a guy who was/is getting out of hunting for
a while.
These birds are going to be this year's CCNDU decoys. I took some before
pictures, which I will post here with the after pictures. I am really
amazed how crappy the cork is in these newer LL Bean dekes. I had to
fill a
lot of chunks where the cork just flaked off in marble sized pieces.
I used
a combination of sawdust and Titebond II glue mixed to a gooey consistancy
to fill the voids. These dekes will also get 2 coats of primer and
then the
final color coat. I have 4 more of these dekes to do the same thing
to. I
hope to sell 2 and hunt over 2. I also decided to resurrect one of
the
first dekes I ever made. Back in 1991 when I first entertained the
idea of
making my own decoys, I thought I'd make them out of burlap covered
foam,
coated with epoxy. Those first 3 were UGLY. However the 3rd one was
the
least ugly, so I thought I would repaint it as a mallard (it was a
black)
and use it in my pot hole rig as its fairly light.
I'll be working on these mallards for a week or 2 more anyhow, and by
then
it'll be time to do March's Decoy Doings, and I'll get that column
out on
time.
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Jan/Feb Carving Tip
If you are using brown cork, consider using a bottom board made from
either
1/4" exterior or marine plywood or 3/4" thick pine board. Why? bottom
boards protect the cork right at the edge of the bottom. Every cork
deke I
have ever repaired that did not have a bottom board has damage to the
edge
of the bottom. Glue them on with Titebond II, then cut the deke to
shape.
Give the wood (and cork) a liberal dose of Thompson's Water Seal and
paint
with 2 coats of primer/1 color coat of paint (just like the rest of
the
decoy), and your decoy will survive much better.
Hi All. I hope wherever you are, spring is making its way your way.
Here at
the Bourbon house, we have only a small amount of snow left in one
corner
of the yard. The annual spring melt flood waters have retreated to
where I
can walk around on at least half of my property again and the ducks
and
geese are showing up in decent numbers. On top of all that, my favorite
song bird, the redwing blackbird is back in force. Life is good.
Now that I finally finished those LL Bean dekes I talked about in last
month's column, I have started the same thing all over again on another
pair of LL Bean Mallards. These are going to get the same treatment
as this
year's CCNDU mallards pictured on the home section of this site. I
have
already patched all the missing chunks of cork, and given them 2 coats
of
black Rustoleum. The heads are pinned in place, and all they need is
the
finish coat(s). I have also started on a brown cork goldeneye with
a
mahogany tailboard. This bird also has a 1/4" plywood tail, as I believe
they are essential for long decoy life.This whistler is going to be
a
little bit different from the other cork whistlers I have carved. On
this
one,I have the tail pointing down at a little more acute angle which
(I
think) makes the hump on the back look more pronounced, and thus more
life
like. As usual, this deke got 2 coats of Thompson's Water Seal and
is now
ready for a couple of coats of Rustolem black.
A guy I know asked me to carve him a cork Black Duck out of brown cork.
I
told him I would be glad to as I saw a really neat pattern in a decoy
carving book that I wanted to try out. So I cut the pattern out, and
transfer the shape to a stiff piece of construction paper. Well, I
must of
not been paying enough attention to decoy related things, because the
other
day I was looking for it when I happened across my 4 year old daughters
desk. And there, sure enough, she had glued it to her desk top. Now
I am
talking about one of those antique kids school desks, boy was I pissed.
I'm
not sure which I was madder about, the desk top or having to start
all over
again on the patterns. Oh well....
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March's Decoy Carving
This month's tip is a result of an email I received from Blaine Hansel
of
Minnesota. He asked how do I balance the decoy so that it floats right?
Since I am sometimes at a loss for what to include as a carving tip,
I
welcome the question. In short Blaine, ya gotta tank test it. I have
an old
fashioned galvanised clothes washing type tank that I float my dekes
in to
check the way they look.
First things first though. You have to decide whether or not you want
a
self righting decoy, and if so, do you want it to self right just from
the
side or from a totally upside down position. If you want it to self
right
from an inverted position, that pretty much dictates the use of a keel.
On
diving ducks that I usually make 7.5 to 8.0 inches wide, you almost
always
have to have a keel 2" or maybe a little more deep. I use external
weights
which I screw to the bottom of the keel. This gives you more righting
action than if you had weights inset into the keel. Your next step
is to
rubber band the keel weight to the keel. Then use a couple of BIG rubber
bands and band the whole keel assembly to the decoy. Place the bird
in the
water and wait till the waves calm down. Look it over front to back
and
side to side. As a general statement, I like the tails of puddle ducks
to
be either parralel with the water or pointing slightly up. Divers,
I like
them to have the tail sloping down to the water. It kind of goes without
saying that the decoy should not be leaning to port or starboard. if
its
not floating the way you think it should, pick the decoy out of the
water
and adjust the keel and weight side to side and fore and aft. Float
it
again and repeat till it looks the way you like it.
If you don't have a galvanised tub, use the bathtub and ignore the wife's
smart comments. Trust me, they have been expecting you to do something
like
this and to deny them the oppurtunity to comment would be criminal
(at
April 1999 has flown by and I am just now getting a chance to write
this month's
Decoy Doings. And yes, I do have something to show for my time. I finshed
that
brown cork goldeneye decoy that I started last month. In last month's
column I
said it had a 1/4" plywood tail. That was a "mis-statement". It is
really 1/4"
mahogany. Regardless of what ever the tail is made out of, that is
one pretty
decoy. If there is a Burlington Decoy show this year, that deke is
going in it.
I finished repainting/repairing the 2nd set of LL Bean decoys. I started
them
last month and finished yesterday. I swear if I never paint another
hen mallard,
that will be fine with me. I also started work on a balsa feeding mallard,
(yes
its a hen). This is my first time working with Balsa and I must say
I have mixed
emotions about it. Its light, it cuts easy, and is probably the messiest,
dustiest wood I've ever worked. It puts every bit as much dust in the
air and
when I work brown cork. Anyhow, I am done shaping it and have started
painting
the Rustolem flat black primer coats on it.
This month I had a chance meet one of the many people who I have chatted
with
on-line. Frank Kehoe of Colchester Vt stopped by the house the other
day with
the first decoy he has carved. It was/is a yellow cork Drake Canvasback.
It was
truly an impressive first effort. He brought his large male yellow
lab with him,
(of course as I type this I can't remember the dog's name). Hopefully
Frank and
I can get together some more this year and either do some carving
or work the dogs.
That's about it for this month. I am fresh out of ideas for this month's
carving tip, so if there is anything you wish to know, send me an e-mail
and I will try
Hi all. Yep, I'm late with the May decoy doings. I got so busy doing
stuff that I haven't had a chance to write about it yet. Like what you
ask? Well for starters I finished a very pretty cedar hollow Drake Bufflehead.
This particular bird was one I bandsawed to shape last fall and set aside
to get to
"someday". Unfortunately since then, the block did a litle checking
and cracking. In examining the wood, I could see hollowing it out in the
conventional manner was out. So I tried a little experiment. I used a 3/4"
spade bit to hollow out the wood on either side of the center line of the
bottom of the deke. I left a 1" wide "wall" that runs fore and aft in the
bottom of the deke. Like I said, other than that "wall" in the wood, the
bottom is open. I saw this in Grayson Chessor's book, "Carving Decoys the
Century Old Way". I figure I will try it, and if it don't work out (meaning
it rolls too much), somebody will get a nice buflehead decoy present this
Christmas.
Last month I mentioned I met Frank Kehoe,
a guy I originally met on line on Eric Patterson's excellent Duck Boat
Page. Well this month I went over to his house to help him apply a layer
of epoxy and 6 oz. cloth to the bottom of a very nice pirouge he had built.
All went well with that, and truth be told I had fun doing it. It was the
first time I had played with epoxy and cloth since I
finished building my little boat 'Pigwitch'. Right about the end of
the month, Frank invited me to go with him to meet a fellow waterfowler
and writer for Vermont Outdoors Magazine, Bradley Carlton. Bradley has
a neat duck boat for sale, and curious guy that I am, I just had to go
check it out. His boat is 16 foot long with a blind made out of aluminum
channel and sheeting, covered with natural
reeds and baling twine. Neat boat. I intend to steal his baling twine
idea to use on Pigwitch this fall.
I have also been doing some dog training. I have been working Kiowa
in the water as much as possible out behind the house in the Browns River.
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May 1999 Carving Tip
Bill VanderLaan answered my request for folks to write and suggest topics for the carving tip section. He asked that I list a few common beginners mistakes and how to avoid them. as somebody who still occaisionally makes mistakes I think I can help him out....
1) putting the eyes in "funny". Funny can mean a couple of different things. Funny can mean the eyes are too far forward or aft. Funny can mean the eyes are not in the same spot on each side in relation to each other.
How to get around that? First off, as a general statement, the eyes
go in with the bottom edge of the eye level with the top of the bill. In
addition to that make sure that the eye(s) are in the same spot by installing
one and then looking at the head from the top to see where the second eye
should go. The
second eye should be installed the same way you did the first. Instead
of using a drill bit, consider using a carving knife to slowly cut the
eye hole to the shape of a circle. This way if your placement is off a
little bit one way or another, you can 'massage' the hole into the rigt
spot. I usually figure about 5 minutes per eye to carve it out, use overnight
epoxy to seal the eye in and let dry.
2) not signing your bird in indelible ink. Someday down the road, SOMEBODY, probaly somebody you are related to will wish that you did so that they could authenticate the deke.
Hi Folks. June is over and and I am just now getting a chance to write.
I have
been busy with all kinds of stuff. Like what? I got a call from a wanna
be new
carver named Shawn Gordon. Shawn came over to look at some dekes, tools
and
other toys. Turns out Shawn is related to a guy I used to work with.
We had a
nice visit and when he left, he left with some tool catolgs and a desire
to do
some carving...I'm hoping he will give me a call after he finishes
his first one
so I can be nosy and check it out.
I also am trying an experiment in that I saw a drawing of a decoy made
from 2x
construction grade material in Joel Barber's
book. I am almost done the first one. Its going to be a drake bluebill.
I figure
I will use this flat deke as a "rig filler", that is a decoy in the
middle of
the rig, just something to make it look like a bigger spread. The beauty
of
these flat dekes is that I can whip one out from start to finish in
about 4
hours as compared to one of my hollow cedar dekes which can take me
upwards of
10 hours each.
I also bandsawed out a bunch of heads for Bill VanderLan and some more
for me.
So now I have to finish the second of my flat dekes and carve some
heads.
Nothing much else to talk about, and no carving tip this month. See
you next
month.
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Once again I have fallen behind on my decoy doings column. However I
have been
busy with all kinds of stuff. First and foremost, I finally finished
both of my
experiments, the flat "rig fillers" blackheads and the bufflehead I
hollowed
like a suckduck decoy. I must admit floating in my bathtub, that all
looked
good, but it was going to take a boatride to tell if I was anywhere
near getting
it right.
Between that excuse and a request I got from Frank Kehoe to show him
how my gang
rigs worked out, we hitched the aluminum boat to the back of my Bronco
and
headed to the Lamoile River F&G access. Now I hadn't run this boat
since last
Dec, so I was a little hesitant to brag on its starting ability, but
it came
through in short order. Frank and I put-puted down the Lamoille till
we got to
the south fork of the river mouth. It was there that the total shallowness
of
the Lake Champlain sunk in. We had to get out and walk the boat past
the fork,
which is something I have NEVER had to do before.
So anyhow, Frank and I went out on a day it was blowing strongly out
of the
SouthWest making 1.5 to 2 foot rollers in the area where I do a lot
of hunting.
First thing I did was put out the flat decoys. Then I put out the buffy.
Now I
honestly expected the buffy to turn turtle in the high waves that were
rolling
through the dekes, but it rode very well. Because the flat dekes don't
have a
keel or weight, I was afraid they might roll over and ride upside down
due to
the head acting like a keel.
Now the reason Frank and I were playing with the gang rigs is that he
just
bought a new boat and was trying to get a good gang rig figured out,
and he had
seen me talk about the way I do it on Eric Batterson's Duck Boat talk
forum. I
told him I could set each rig with 14 decoys in less than a minute,
OR pull the
rig in less than a minute, with minimum tangles or fuss.
Even though my boat sucks in waves the size we were in, I was still
able to come
through on my one minute boast of setting each rig. Now, the whole
time we're
farting around with gang rigs, the flat dekes and the buffy are riding
just as
pretty as you please, without turning over or anything.
So as far as I am concerned the 2 experiments are a success. I have
a couple of
canvasback heads roughed out and a 4 foot long 2x10 in the basement
that I think
I will make into flat canvasback rig fillers. Maybe I can get them
finished by
next season....
July/August's Carving Tip
This is not so much a new tip as it is an affirmation of one of my old
tips. Way
back, I said use wood from trees cut in the dead of winter for the
best results,
less checking and cracking. About a month ago, I was given 3 logs from
a white
pine that was hit by lightning. Big logs. I have tham stacked up in
the backyard
near the gas grill. While grilling I could hear a "noise" coming from
the logs.
After much head scratching I pulled the bark off to see the biggest
frigging
white grubs happily munching on the logs and back. At the same time,
the exposed
wood is busy drying up and checking away. I'm going to have to throw
all 3 of
Yes, I am back on track with the Decoy Doings
column! Nothing like getting
behind and recieving emails hinting that I should get off my butt or
call it a
semi-monthly column to prod one to write.
Many months ago a gentleman in Southern Vt asked me to carve him a cork
black
duck. I promised I would have it to him in time for this year's season.
I'm
cutting it close, but I think I will make it. With this black, I used
a pattern
I got out of a book by William Veasey. The originator of the pattern
was Ralph
Nocerino of Long Island NY. Damn pretty pattern. So far I have the
deke fully
shaped with the first coat of primer paint on, and the keel cut to
shape.
My other Sept project has been to carve me my first Ringneck. many months
back,
I modified my basic Lake Champlain
Goldeneye decoy pattern to a ringneck shape, and then bandsawed out
2 bodies and
heads. Well, I FINALLY got around to shaping one head and one body,
and painted
it as a drake. As with all the rest of my Lake Champlain dekes, this
one is a
solid body, with less detail work than my other series.
No carving tip this month, next month's column will have some comments on how
Hi All. Well I finished that cork
Black Duck for the guy in southern
Vt. I was only 2 days late getting it to him. he sent me a nice note,
my
first testimonial letter. As you might expect, I saved it in my photo
album/scrap book with pictures of that deke.
All modesty aside, that decoy came out very nice. If you ever looking
for a
graceful, large black duck/mallard pattern, check out the Nocerino
pattern
in Bill Veasey's book.
I think I am going to carve 2 for me for ext year. I had a chance to
hunt
over my bufflehead a couple of times so far. It floats very serenely.
I
think the only reason that it does is that keel I put on it. Normaly,
decoys with a hollow bottom, ala suc-duck decoys, don't float well
in rough
water. This 2" deep keel does the trick.
I was a little disapointed with the Ringneck deke I carved using my
Lake
Champlain generic diver decoy pattern. I put a 1 and 3/8" wood keel
with an
external half moon shaped lead weight on it. In my washtub that I use
to
test float every deke I carve, it would not self right. However
when the
deke was in the lake, even the smallest amount of wave action caused
it to
self right. So I guess I am not too disapointed after all. I think
I am
going to carve me up a bunch more of the Ringnecks.
In thinking about the Ringneck's keel depth, it occured to me that I
have
always made the keels deep enough to self right the deke in a totally
calm
bathtub. But truthfully, the only place in the world where it is that
calm
is in the judging tank at a decoy show. I'm thinking that maybe I'll
try to
replicate this Ringneck's "self righting" ability for future hunting
dekes.
The best reason for doing so is that that way I don't have a bunch
of very
deep keels filling up the boat.
See ya next month
Hi All. Yes this column is late, even by my lacadasical standards.
I've
gotten emails with people calling me a slacker, telling me I ought
to quit
reffering to it as a Monthly column, yada, yada, yada. Hey, I've been
busy.
What can I say?
Regardless, I do have some stuff to talk about. During the course
of the
season I met a young hunter from Rutland Vt who wants me to carve him
a
half dozen bird rig of those flat "rig filler" dekes I make from 2x
construction grade wood. He was a nice kid so I took his number and
told
him I would carve him 6 birds sometime this summer. Heck, I was so
antsy to
get back carving that I already started, and have all 6 heads roughed
out.
While doing that I figured that for this year's Duck's Unlimited dekes,
I
would carve them a pair and call them "A Greenwing's First Wood Dekes".
About the time I was working on his dekes, I got to figuring I needed
some
canvasback filler dekes to compliment my canvasback rig. So I took
the 3
canvasback heads that I had laying around, and wipped up some bodies
for
them. So now they sit on top of my tool box awaiting paint jobs.
My friend Ruel Elliott made me another Briggs and Stratton powered
outboard, this time with a full shifting lower unit. He woulnd't let
me pay
him for his labor, so I promised him a deke. As a result Ruel got the
last
decoy of the millenium, a solid wood goldeneye decoy carved in what
I call
my Lake Champlain pattern. I painted it to look like the old time paint
jobs this type of decoy originally wore.
Another good friend of mine, Frank Kehoe, asked me to cut some pieces
of
wood out on my bandsaw for him. He is building a KARA boat and needed
some
curved wood for the deck. When we got done that, I offered to bandsaw
out
and rough
shape him a canvasback filler deke if he'd time me to see how fast
I could
do this start to finish. From the moment I tightened it in the vise
till I
was 95% done, it was less than 10 minutes, including a rasp job to
knock
off the high spots. The other 5% was for fitting the head. It usually
takes
me about 2-3 minutes to do that.
My son is into POKEMON stuff in the worst way, so I carved him a Charmander
for Christmas. It was about 10" tall, and as far as I'm concerned ugly
as
hell, but he liked it. Just yesterday he picked through his Pokemon
cards
to select the "next" one he wanted me to carve him. My head hurts just
thinking about it.
In November I bought an amphibious 6 wheel ATV made by MAX ATV's. What
a
hoot that thing has been. I've been tooling around the flood plain
behind
the house, playing in the mud, etc. I've gotten it stuck twice so far.
Both
times had to do with me not knowing how to drive the thing. Its a lot
of
technique.
My aluminum boat that I hunt out of, the one that is pictured on Eric
Patterson's Duck Boat Page, has been retired. The plywood in the transom
got so punky I just plain got scared to go out in it. So I stripped
everything off it and put all the pieces in storage of one type or
another.
The 28hp Evinrude I had on it was fogged, and put to sleep in the basement,
the fastgrass removed, dried, and rolled up and stored in the garage.
The
blind was removed and is out behind the barn. I was going to just plain
junk it, but Frank has me talked into using it as a blind this year
if I
can find a place to anchor it during the season.
Right after I got the 6 wheeler, my furnace died and I had to replace
it.
THAT was an unexpected expence!
I think you get the point about me being busy. I promise as part of
my New
Year's resolution, I WILL keep the Decoy Doings column up to date.
You'll
see....
John
Bourbon Jr.
Created
by Donald Hughes